The battery decides the price
On an e-bike, the battery is the most expensive part to replace. A bike that looks new can have a tired battery, and a good-looking deal turns expensive a few months later. Always judge the battery first.
- Ask how old the battery is and whether it was ever replaced. Ask for the receipt if there is one.
- Ask what range the bike gives now on a full charge, then test-ride long enough to see the meter move.
- Check the battery case: no swelling, cracks, burn marks or a strong smell.
- Ask if the battery is lithium or lead-acid/graphene, and check it matches what the seller says.
Test ride checklist
- The bike should pull smoothly from a stop, without jerks or cutting out.
- Listen to the motor: a grinding or knocking sound can mean worn bearings or a damaged hub.
- Try a small slope. A big drop in speed can point to a weak battery.
- Both brakes should stop the bike firmly, and the motor should cut off when you brake.
- Lights, horn, indicators and the display should all work.
Body, wiring and charger
- Look under the bike for a bent frame, welding marks or rust, which can mean an accident.
- Check wiring near the handle and under the seat: no taped-up cuts or melted plastic.
- Make sure the original charger comes with the bike and charges without getting very hot.
- Tyres and brake pads are cheap, but count their cost in your offer.
Papers
Ask for the registration papers if the bike is registered, the purchase receipt and any warranty card. Match the chassis number on the bike with the papers. Be careful if the seller has no documents at all or the price is far below the market.